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Boots

My current hiking boot is on its last legs. Looking back through the blog I can see that I bought this boot a little over six years ago. It’s Garmont Syncro GTX something. A mid-range and a somewhat lower boot for general applications. About the first thing I did with it was to step into a water filled ditch in the woods in the middle of the winter. Good times … But anyway, the boot itself has held up ok, though the soles were done for already last year. Now I could of course have these boots resoled. I found a local place that was able to get hold of Vibram replacement soles. But resoling a boot will cost nearly 50% of the market price of this mid range model. And this pair of boots just doesn’t feel fresh enough anymore to go for resoling. Put another way, a new pair of soles could get me another five years, but I doubt the boot itself would hold up as long. And for the record, from what I can tell, there is no boot being sold under the Syncro designation anymore. Otherwise I might have considered getting a Syncro redux.

meindlislandmfspro So I figured I’d go for a new pair of boots, towards the high end of the spectrum. And so after much internet research, griping, and hesitation I proceeded to look around and try the models that are in fact available. For practical purposes, these include the entire line-up of Haglöfs and Meindl. Plus to some extent Hanwag and Viking. By method of elimination I got down to a pair of Meindl Island MFS Pro. The entire Haglöfs line just felt iffy. And even the Meindl boot needed moldable footbed insoles, from what I believe to be SofSole, to really excel.

I’m gonna have to think this through. Not just because it’s an incredibly expensive solution but because it most likely fails miserably on wet slippery or icy surfaces. One of the few solid criteria I had put up. But then again so do most high end boots because of their incredibly hardy soles. I don’t know if Meindl’s soles are particularly bad but it’s bad enough for them to deal with it on their website. And some customer reviews have phrased this boot’s performance on ice as plain death wish suicidal. That is also why I initially wanted Viking or Haglöfs, because they both offer a softer, more all-round sole that possibly offers better grip on slippery surfaces. It is also quite possible that it doesn’t make much of a difference and that these softer soles just wear down much quicker.

Also I’d be a little wary using such hoity-toity boots on a daily basis. People can brag a about boots that they’ve had all their lives, but most likely those boots spent most of their time on a shelf. Worn on a daily basis for 6-7 months a year I can ruin pretty much any product. It doesn’t matter if it’s built like a tank. So the question is if a pair of Meindl is in fact just opening up for a new mid-range second boot in the long run. One with better grip and less of a price tag that I can wear on a more daily basis. Highly specialized winter boots, like IceBugs or whatever are out of the question though. And while on the topic of even more specialized boots, I suppose that Lundhags or other rubber bottom boots are also out of the question.

Addendum: I also just realized that there are some noteworthy line-up changes for the next season. Two of these changes even made the Outdoor Industry Award 09 list. One being the weird synthetic Haglöfs Grym (coolest name ever?) and the other being an upgrade to the Meindl Island. The upgrade is already evident on Meindl’s website and should appear in stores early next year. From my point of view the upgrades are significant, thus buying a deprecated Meindl Island MFS Pro now when the Meindl Island MFS Active is right around the corner is just lunacy. Especially since Meindl only upgrades their boots once every decade or so. Word on the street is that Island Active will be available in late March. In other words right on time for the sandal season.

Samsung F2 HD103SI Racket

I really don’t like they way my new Samsung F2 sounds. Makes me wary to put a bunch of these in a NAS. Imagine the fun of having an enclose of F2s next to your bed howling like wolves in the night. Turn your volume up …

Posting around, and comparing it to a friend’s Samsung F1 drive, has however suggested that this sound is normal. As is the very similar but shorter whining that occurs while the drive is running. I wonder why I’ve never seen this mentioned in reviews. I know WD has their head parking noise going on, but it can be turned off permanently on most revisions. I sure wish you could shut the F2 up.

Hard Drive Elastic

Not satisfied with the Scythe Hard Drive Stabilizer I decided to opt for a more hands-on approach. A nasty T166 suspended using elastic:

The end result is far better, and cheaper. The downside is of course that you can’t throw your case around. Also, I noticed the hard drive temperature went up one degree compared to the Stabilizer in the same slot. I found it weird since the Stabilizer is mostly a bunch of rubber that doesn’t conduct heat very well. But apparently rubber is better than nothing.

The Scythe Kama Plus is still a real life saver though. Funny cause I thought beforehand that it would surely be a waste of money and that the Stabilizers would be solid. I am quite sure that I would be reluctant to run any drives in this position without the extra fan taking in fresh air.

I could probably fit one or two more drives in this position so I might do the same thing to the Samsung F2. Not that I have to. The difference in terms of vibration is staggering compared to the T166 suspended above. Anyhow, I need more elastic. I only got a meter and a half and used up over a meter suspending just one drive.

Windows 7 3rd Party Font Sizes

I believe this could have been a problem as far back as Vista, but since I just jumped on the bandwagon I was simply taken aback by this complete foul-up. The problem is simply as follows: Older and 3rd party applications have their dialog boxes and interface garbled by what appears to be a font size problem. Text becomes too long, wordwraps, gets hidden, sometimes making part of the ui invisible.

Illustration:

windows7fontproblem

(from left to right: Radeon Bios Editor, Transfer Time Calculator, Nimtoy, XYplorer, Acdsee Classic)

Ultimately I am sure this could be blamed on developers not keeping up with the times. But whatever Microsoft did under the hood I want it undone and bloody fast at that. Could it have something to do with DPI aware? Or is it a font replacement (“FontSubstitutes”) in the registry? I have set my system font size back to 100% (96 DPI) from 125% (120 DPI) or whatever it was out of the box but beyond that I am at a loss.

Addendum: Indeed, moving back to 120 DPI “solved” the issue. But I can’t run W7 kiddie style obviously. Icons become blurry as hell for most applications, and things get so large on my preferred 1280×960 screen that nothing will fit anymore. Quite a dilemma. But it must be some sort of a bug. Some sort of font size or dialog box element anomaly.

Solution: After much google-fu I came upon a discussion that pointed to this. Turns out that because my installation started out at 120 DPI, certain (bitmap) font settings in the registry where locked to correspond to that DPI setting. Switching back to 100% will shrink the interface but keep the font size, thus breaking the layout. There is a registry fix at the above link that will reset bitmap font sizes back to what they ought to be at 96 DPI. Or vice versa if you for some reason have the opposite problem. All in all another example of how LCD users and Microsoft surveys are ruining things.

Scythe Stabilizer and Kama Plus

So, I got a couple of Hard Drive Stabilizers from Scythe as well as the Kama Plus front air intake. It was a bit of a gamble, since my Gigabyte Aurora has all these tool-less solutions throughout the case. I was impressed with all the rails and sliders and whatnot at first but in time I’ve realized what a nuisance they can be when trying to install something out of the ordinary.

scythedrivestabilizer2scythekamaplus

Long story short is that both products worked out nicely, and actually did what they were supposed to do. The only remaining issue would be with the models needing to be fastened better, or padded rather, on the right side where you cant use screws (because of the case).

Continue reading ‘Scythe Stabilizer and Kama Plus’

Upgrade phase three

samsung_f2_hd103si

I couldn’t wait for a NAS to I decided to get some more hard drive space in the meantime. I figured the 1TB Samsung F2 (HD103SI) would last me a while. Ironically this was the drive I originally had wanted for a NAS system, but due to hibernation issues couldn’t use.

About the NAS project, well, it has stalled because the people on the QNAP and Synology support forums haven’t provided solid answers. They have been unable to provide anything but sketchy power consumption figures. And they have been completely unforthcoming when it comes to BitTorrent. Basically, I want to move my torrenting to a lean NAS platform. But the lingering issue is one of speed. How fast could could a 1.2 GHz Marvell/ARM-based NAS run BitTorrent (with encryption enabled). A simple question but one that I’ve yet to get a proper answer to. People that I’ve asked have either not ventured beyond the built-in client or they don’t have a fast enough connection so that they can be of any help or their ISP throttles torrents. Needless to say I DO NOT want a $350 NAS on my hands that I wont have any use for.

Another complication with Synology (and probably QNAP as well) is that pretty much every new “green” drive is incompatible in one way or another. The above drive doesn’t enter hibernation. Data on Seagate LP is dodgy and not very reassuring. And my second drive of choice WD10EADS has just come out in a new revision (00P8B0) that supposedly brings a two-platter design -  and total incompatibility with most NAS units and many other platforms. I’m unsure as to whose fault this is, but buying a green NAS has gotten a lot harder all of a sudden.

Continue reading ‘Upgrade phase three’

PC Games Winter 2009

angryfaceAnother dismal quarter.

Left 4 Dead 2: The first person shooter equivalent of Space Invaders. Seriously. I’ve seen cattle in a slaughterhouse feeling less herded than the unwitting player of the L4D series. Linear like a 2D scroller. And dumbed down as well with console-like controls and abilities.

And how about Dragon Age. Role-playing. Cute. Massive install anyhow. Not for SSD owners certainly. I just don’t have the patience for games like this anymore. Half-baked interfaces and backwards inventory systems. No thank you.

The only game recently that I’ve been able to play for more than an hour is Borderlands. But even that got boring after a while. Fat chance that you’ll ever take the time to replay the game using any of the other characters.

It’s interesting though that many of these games, including the dreary Modern Warfare 2 now have co-op in some form. Too bad it obscures any effort to make single-player last a little longer.

Looking forward to a new year of utter dismal releases. Only now in DX11. If we’re really lucky, Battlefield 1943, Assassin’s Creed II and Mass Effect 2 may not totally suck.

Oh and props to EA or DICE or whoever finally screwed up Battlefield Heroes. I guess someone got greedy and figured they could make people pay to get ahead in the game. Even though they promised this exact thing would never happen.

Windows 7 Proper Install And Gripes

After a RAM and SSD upgrade, as well as learning how to fool the activation system, and doing several test runs I was finally comfortable with moving to Windows 7. It’s inevitable after all because of DX11, and the availability of a useful x64 version of Windows. Vista x64 was never an option and XP x64 was at best a parenthesis that very few ever supported.

So how did it go? Well, installation from USB stick to SSD went smooth. 15 minutes all in all give or take user input and the speed of the USB stick. Boot times, with SSD, were amazing, around 46 seconds to hit the desktop. Though only about 20 of those are actually spent loading Windows. The rest is various POST related stuff. I am sure I can do more, in the bios and from within Windows to speed things up.

My first impression of Windows 7 still stands however. I find it remarkably awkward and very unfriendly to power users. If you’re like me, the amount of little fixes that you’ll have to do after a fresh install is simply staggering. And as of yet, I’ve been unable to find a good tweaking program (that didn’t crash) to do all of these things automatically.

Here are just a few gripes in no particular order:

  • Shortcut arrow on icons. So far impossible for me to remove despite several proclaimed fixes.
  • Safely remove hardware icon shows up, suggesting that you can hotplug your SATA AHCI system boot drive. Unlikely. Impossible so far to selectively make it not show SATA hard drives. Will try to kill it altogether and install Safely Remove instead.
  • Text and icon size is waaay enlarged when first installing W7. By 125% or so. Finding the setting to revert to 100% isn’t impossible but I cannot fathom why Microsoft would do this. New fancy icons may work, I don’t know, but most icons look smudged and jagged. An icon is exactly 16 or 32 pixels or whatever. Pixels are pixels. They are not to be stretched, mangled or otherwise abused.
  • The taskbar is completely useless. Though thankfully it can be tweaked to resemble the classic functionality. Taking back your old school quick launch however is nonintuitive to say the least.
  • You will find that a ton of applications wont launch. Thankfully, most likely none of those applications are essential nor irreplaceable.
  • Windows offering to format “raw” hard drives from time to time. No, they’re not raw, they’re encrypted you stupid piece of shit! Aggravated by the fact that W7 sees disks are removable. But installing Safely Remove will also have the side effect of killing the "remove hardware" icon.
  • The new explorer interface … can’t get my head around it. It’s like a media browser, but it can’t handle or relate to the hard drive’s actual structure. Unless you revert you’re entire theme to classic from what I understand. Replacement: XYplorer for those times when you want to browse the hard drive like a non-retard.
  • The new copy / move interface. File or folder already exists? Prepare to be hit over the head with the most useless, cluttered and confusing dialog box EVER. Replacement: Teracopy or FF Copy.
  • Ever heard of winsxs? No? In my 12GB windows folder it takes up 6GB (40k files and 10k folders!). Supposedly it used to be much bigger in Vista. This is obviously poison on an SSD. And there is no way to get rid of it. Supposedly it adds compatibility by offering side-by-side libraries. And it does seem to be bigger and grow more on x64 systems. It’s a ticking bomb basically if you have a 30 GB partition.
  • Windows Search is a real pain in the ass as well. Though a lot more powerful than its predecessors, you will never notice because you’ll most likely not get past all the fluff. And who wants the indexer running anyway? And why can’t we have search in the context menu any more? I tried to restore the latter but it didn’t work as intended. Apparently you can now replace the entire search application so I will look into that. Something like Super Finder XT or FileSeek perhaps? Locate, Everything? There are plenty.
  • Bitmap font sizes (Sans Serif etc) don’t really change with overall DPI settings the way they should. If W7, during the installation, thinks you should be at 120 DPI and later change to 96 DPI, you will notice how bitmaps fonts are still at a size that relatively speaking corresponds to 120 DPI. Fixed it.

Possibly driver / 3rd party related.

  • Coming out of sleep (S3) I lose sound from the right audio channel. Fiddling around in the Realtek HD Manager, saving settings, solves the problem temporarily. Fixed it somehow. At least it hasn’t happened in a long while.
  • Coming out of sleep (S3) I sometimes find that the power profile has been reset. Evident by the fact that the system now requires you to log on. Suspected Rivatuner but not entirely sure. Removed Rivatuner, hasn’t happened again.

That is just what I could think of off the top of my head. Don’t get me wrong, W7 is great, but its UI greatness is directly proportional to how little you know about computers.

Addendum: A few weeks later and W7 is still going strong. No BSODs and the only time my graphics drivers crashes it was possible to re-acquire the GPU without a reboot. SSD drive still seems fast (using TRIM). I have installed Safely Remove, XYplorer, Teracopy, and Everything to combat some of the more annoying shortcomings. Haven’t spent much time tweaking services yet so that is definitely something to do. But with an SSD and 6 GB of RAM you just don’t feel the burden anymore. I have solved some of the SSD usage / encryption concerns by having some applications use an encrypted HDD disk for cache. That way I reduce the wear and tear on the SSD, save space and keep the data secure. As for the disk space on the SSD, I still haven’t partitioned the last 15 GB. But now that I have TRIM I probably will after some more research. The C: drive has 10 out of 30 GB free. And that is with most of the software installed. Open Office, Adobe etc etc. D: has 13 out of 33 GB free. My idea is to only keep the games I actually play on SSD. And games where a) load times are an issue and b) SSD might change the playing field so to speak. In general, SSDs don’t do much in this field as loading times are usually just sloppy programming decisions and CPU / RAM bottlenecking. But I was thinking of moving the massive WoW folder (now 16 GB after patch 3.3.0) to see what that does. When I do play WoW, I sometimes switch alts several times a minute so any reduction of loading times would be most helpful. At any rate it would be stupid to continue to run some games off of encrypted space. I used to because I did a really sloppy full disk encryption, but now I more options.

Upgrade phase two

90095 SSD. I couldn’t resist with all the hype and all. Despite serious shortages I managed to find a retail Intel X25-M G2 80GB. For the price difference you get a shiny box, not four but actually five screws of each type, and a 2.5 to 3.5 adapter. What a caper. Anyhow, installation of Windows 7 went well after I had done some reading, aligning the partition with diskpar. Preliminary partioning became 30 – 33 – 11.5 GB. With the last 11.5 GB left unallocated for now. I will have to do some more reading on whether or not TRIM changes longterm performance enough to utilize the entire drive. 30 GB for Windows may seem slim, but I did run XP on a 30 Gb partition and that has worked fine. Even with Windows 7 consuming 12 GB after a fresh install, it adds up if you move RAW camera files (about 10GB at any given time) off of the boot drive (and hopefully to a NAS) and don’t let a bunch of games (like UT3) pollute the documents folder.

Continue reading ‘Upgrade phase two’

Windows 7 finally cracked

Windows 7 Ultimate I’m happy to announce that Windows 7 x64 has finally been given the green light around here. As a candidate for dual booting with XP x86 or even on its own. My previous (sleep-related) gripes were resolved through much experimentation:

  • Screen resolution coming out of sleep (S3) reverting to 1024×768 60Hz: SOLVED!
  • SLIC 2.1 bios activation hack wouldn’t flash properly or stick when coming out of sleep (S3), showing SLIC 2.0: SOLVED!

The screen thing kind of solved itself when playing around with the graphics settings. I turned off the "Hide Modes that this monitor cannot display" checkbox and then upon exiting sleep the next time I manually set the resolution and refresh. After that I even installed Catalyst but it seems to have stuck perfectly. I now also know for sure why this condition developed. Experimentation showed that it was indeed my master-slave switch that causes an obvious delay in turning on the monitor, thus not providing the OS with EDID. Lucky, since I was just moments away from taking out the pliers (EDID hack).

The SLIC bios hack proved to more of a challenge by comparison. I had previously installed W7 two or three times, always with different versions, but never gotten it to work. I had flashed the bios numerous times, including once from within Windows that damn near bricked the mainboard (Gigabyte P35 DS4 2.0). I was even considering buying a new mainboard (cheaper than buying W7 Ultimate). But then I did the smart thing, got award tool, built my own bios (using ISA instead of SSV3, not that I think it matters. And I read the instructions. Especially the part where it says "remove any softmods".

The thing is that pirated versions of Windows 7 always come with some sort of built-in activation through a softmod. It uses SLIC also in a manner of speaking but loads it into memory as the OS boots. Which is why it is so problematic with some mainboards (Gigabyte), because somehow this data gets shredded activating sleep (S3). I don’t know how it works, it just does. Anyway, as I came out of sleep using my new and properly hacked bios, I was frustrated to see that Windows 7 still lost validation. Everest showed the SLIC table, but SLIC had now automagically regressed to 2.0 (from 2.1 that is required). Thinking it was the softmod, I proceeded to find ways to get rid of it. Easier said than done of course when you haven’t installed it yourself.

My particular version of W7 was released by BIE. No word on the method used though. So I had a hunch. I remembered the Windows 7 Recovery Disc. I burnt and booted that, tried the automatic repair but it didn’t find any errors, opened the console, and ran bootrec /fixmbr and bootrec /fixboot. That seems to have done it! Though in retrospect, I might have been able to run the repair from my Windows installation.

SLIC table as seen from Everest

Upon investigating the BIE hack further I found they had used the $OEM$ folder method to add a custom script. In this folder there was one bie7_inst.exe and one bie7_uninst.exe. Deleting this folder will obviously prevent the softmod from being installed (I just love having W7 on a USB stick). Running the uninstallation program would probably also have saved me a lot of work.

Also, a reminder when installing 7: Hack to Remove 100 MB System Reserved Partition When Installing Windows 7 (you might thank yourself later when you want Truecrypt or whatever).





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